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KMID : 0604520220480040365
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
2022 Volume.48 No. 4 p.365 ~ p.372
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Evaluation of the Potential of Cellobiose as a Material for Whitening Cosmetics based on Autophagy and Melanin Production Efficacy in Melanocytes
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Cha Byung-Sun
Lee Seok-Ju
Brito Sofia
Jung So-Young
Lee So-Min
Lei Lei
Lee Sang-Hun
Al-Khafaji Zubaidah
Bin Bum-Ho
Kwak Byeong-Mun
Heo Hyo-Jin
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Abstract
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Cellobiose is a dissacharide constituted by two glucose units joined by a β-(‘1,4’) glycosidic bond that is produced by the decomposition of cellulose. This product exists naturally in plants and has been utilized in different industries as a food sweetener, and as a cosmetic and pharmaceutical material. In this study, the potential of cellobiose as a whitening cosmetic product was evaluated by analyzing autophagy induction and the inhibition of melanin production. A cytotoxicity test conducted in the human melanin-producing cell line MNT-1 with increasing concentrations of cellobiose revealed that this compound did not cause cytotoxicity at 20 mg/mL or less. Based on this, autophagy was firstly evaluated by immunostaining with the autophagy marker microtubule-associated protein 1 light chain 3 (LC3) after treatment with 20 mg/mL of cellobiose. The subsequent confocal microscopy analysis revealed an increase in LC3 puncta, indicating induction of autophagy. In addition, autophagy was further confirmed by western blot analysis, which demonstrated that cellobiose converted LC3-Ι to LC3-Π in a concentration- and time-dependent manners. An analysis of melanin contents after cellobiose treatment at a concentration of 20 mg/mL during 7 days revealed that melanin production was reduced by more than 50%. Additionally, the expression levels of melanogenesis-related proteins TYR and TYRP1 were markedly decreased after cellobiose treatment. Based on these studies, a cosmetic cream formulation containing cellobiose was prepared and the change in formulation was tested for 4 weeks, and it was confirmed that the appearance changed to liquid form at high temperature, but the pH did not change. In conclusion, the present research demonstrated that cellobiose activates autophagy and inhibits melanin production, and showed the potential of this product as a material for whitening cosmetics.
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KEYWORD
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cellobiose, natural product, autophagy, whitening, melanin
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